Máa Saláma Muscat

Friday is their holy day, so it was quite busy around the hotel as most guests appeared to be in breakfast. We spent the day by the pool, which again was busier than normal. 

It was still warm but the wind had dropped. In the afternoon we had signed up for a Yoga class, we had never been before, I stayed for about 30 mins, before I got bored, not really flexible to do some of the moves, much easier just to go for a run. Linda liked it and stayed to the end and then chatted to the instructor. It was a Kripalu style yoga comprising an infusion of Kundalini, Yin, Therapeutic and Vinyasa practices. 

We escaped again for dinner, climbing over the rocks and walking along the street. The locals were playing cricket in the sand.  We stopped at the cafe for a shake and a snack. I had Arabic kebab, which I think was a spicy sausage in a wrap, Linda had chicken in a wrap. It was nice and then we had a walk along the promenade. Suddenly there was a sand storm as the wind whipped the sand up off the beach, even interrupted play at the cricket.

We clambered over the rocks back to the hotel, Linda didn’t fall over this time. We then found out they needed to do some work to our room, so we were being moved. We have been upgraded again, now to a suite, which is made up of three rooms, a lounge area, a bedroom and a bathroom area, which even has a bath in it. We still have a balcony. 

Its very nice, but probably too big. We had to pack all our bits up and move them across, a lot of hassle for 2 nights.

On Saturday we had a nice breakfast and then went by the pool. Linda is a bit sun burnt and so wanted to stay under the shade, however that didn’t last long as she went fro a swim in the sea and then in the pool - and came out even redder. Every day she has complained of getting salty water in her face which stung her eyes, I did point out the easy way to avoid it was not swimming in the sea, but as usual she ignored me and went back in there.

In the afternoon as it was getting hot, we moved to the long pool and the shade. We had a swim in there and then relaxed on the seats to dry off.  We decided to go for a walk and wandered into the public beach area, over the rocks and to the shops. It was not so misty today and we could see the mountains and the town. 

Back at the hotel I decided to go for a last run, so back over the rocks and onto the promenade. I ran about 3.5 miles in total, turning round at the halfway point. It was cool today about 34 degrees. I did stop for a cold drink on the way back as had done 3 miles and needed cooling down. The beach was easy to run on, but there was also a bridleway down the side - strangely I didn’t see anyone else running, although there were a few walkers. I was very sweaty when I got back and my clothes were soaked.

As it was our last night we went to the restaurant and had a meal. I had the Arabic mixed grill which was very tasty and Linda had a pasta dish. Then it was back to our room to do the online food shopping for delivery when we arrive back and packed our cases.

We were up at 0430 to get ready for the airport.  Our transport was meant to turn up at 0530, despite phoning them to chase it, it never turned up. Fortunately the hotel car was going to the airport to pick some clients up and offered to take us. It's only a 20 minute drive so we arrived just in time, checked in, cleared immigration and then off to the lounge for some coffee and food - not as luxurious as Heathrow.

We finally boarded, sat back and enjoyed our flight back home. We were the only two people in first class and so had the whole cabin to ourselves and an air steward each. 

You can see some photos here.

Fifty Not Out

Finally reached a half century, it's been hard work getting there, hitting a few sixes and fours as well as as taking opportunities for singles. However, to avoid all the excitement we are away, Linda did say Happy Birthday and that's as far as it goes. No time for a run this morning as we were going on a half day tour. It was up at 7am for breakfast and the food was great again, takes ages to have breakfast as so much to chose from! We had to be ready for 9am and we were. It is hot again today, what a surprise. Sama was our guide and the first stop was the Mosque. Until 1970 the country was known as Muscat and Oman and only became Sultanate of Oman then when the current ruler took over from his father. He unified the country and brought together Muscat and the Interiors

Linda had to cover up to go into the mosque, long trousers, shirt and head scarf. She didn’t have to hide her face and could still talk, as our guide found out. It was very hot in the long clothes.

The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is famous for its carpet, the second largest hand-loomed carpet in the world (largest is in Abu Dhabi mosque). The mosque was built in 1995 and was a gift from the Sultan Qaboos to the nation to mark the 30th year of his reign.  It took six years to build and has five minuets. The tallest is 91 metres high, exactly the same as Mount Arafat in Saudi Arabia.

Under Islam the women can pray in mosque or at home, so most stay at home. They have a separate prayer room and we had to take off our shoes, fortunately I had put clean socks on that morning. There is only room for 751 people and they stand close together. The carpet in their prayer hall comes from Scotland, marble from Italy, bricks India, lights from Turkey and lightbulbs from Paris. I did test Linda back at the hotel to see how much she remembered - but not allowed to reveal the results. The under 10's are not allowed in.

The reasons they stand shoulder to shoulder is  so there is no room for the devil between them. There is a separate area for washing and you always do the right arm or leg first.

In the men’s prayer hall the large Persian carpet is magnificent. Its took 600 Iranian women four years to make. It weighed 21 tonnes to had to be transported in 57 pieces and put together in the mosque. It is around 75 x 60 metre  and has 1,700,000,000 knots.

The Chandelier in the male hall was made in Germany by an Austrian company. It weights  8 tonnes and has 1222 lamps. There is a room above and they reach down to change the bulbs, although I was reminded of the sketch from Only Fools and Horses where Del and Rodders change the light bulbs…. There is real gold on the wall. There is a place for the Imam to speak from at the Friday midday service.

We then went to the information centre and had a chat with some of the leaders. It was interesting their stance on women, although I didn’t agree. The religious leader knew the Bible better than I knew the Koran.  He discussed ‘salat’ which is prayer and the fact they do it five times a day, in Arabic prayer means communication and needs complete attention, which is why men and woman are separated so they are not distracted at this important time of prayer. 

It does make sense and their commitment to prayer is something the church could learn from. It also interesting how the Koran says one thing and different cultures interpret it in a variety of ways. They even gave you real Omani coffee and dates, my first taste, it was different as it has cardamom in it.

Our next stop was the fish market  and it stank, the heat doesn’t help. They are moving to a new one with air conditioning by the end of the year. They had many species of fish including baby shark  and tuna. We didn’t stay long!

After this we went to a Museum and Linda knows how much I love a museum, if I could run as fast as I cover a museum I would be running in the World Championships! It was called Bait Al-Baranda and  depicts the History of Muscat through interactive exhibits from geology to ancient life, Maritime, Folk art to the achievements of Muscat today - really interesting…..but Linda seemed to enjoy, by the amount of time she took.

Muscat is famous for the Mutrah souq so this was next. It is an absorbing labyrinth of narrow, perfume-laden alleyways packed with colourful little shops stacked high with tubs of frankincense and bukhoor, old silver khanjars, Bedu jewellery and other exotic paraphernalia – one of the few markets in the world where it’s possible to buy gold, frankincense and myrrh all under a single roof. I had a good tactic, I looked after the money and Linda wandered around the shops, the traders were talking to her, showing all their wares and inviting her to buy - but she didn’t have any money so couldn’t. Actually she didn’t find anything she wanted.

After this we stopped for coffee and I had Omani coffee, not very good, it was instant coffee with spices thrown in - very disappointing! 

Our final stop was the old town.  The old city of Muscat is separated from the rest of modern Muscat by coastal mountains. The city is protected by a wall with round towers, built in 1625, on the western and southern sides. The Gulf of Oman and the surrounding mountains form a natural boundary to the east and north. Until the mid-20th century, the gates were closed three hours after dusk. The king’s palace is there, but he stays elsewhere and also a couple of old forts, Linda took some pictures.

Then it was back to the hotel and rest. It was a good tour and very informative. According to my Lonely Planet guide ‘Qahwa’. ( Arabic coffee) is  difficult to find outside homes and government buildings - I would agree!

In the afternoon we sat by the pool and then went to our Yoga session. However, we waited at the health centre and no one turned up, we found out later it was held elsewhere but no one told us. We went for a swim instead. I did some running on the beach using the two rocky barriers as the track. It was hard work, although I did get a few strange looks!

When we came back to the room, there was a birthday cake from the hotel, very nice touch. It was made of chocolate, it was tasty, but someone liked the chocolate more than me.

In the evening we went for a meal in the restaurant, Linda had a nice gnocchi pasta and I had an Arabic dish, King fish hata, which was a local fish on a bed of coucous with a spicy sauce - very nice. We both had a desert so more running needed tomorrow.

Thursday was a relaxing day by the pool. We had a late breakfast, sat on our balcony and then wandered down to the beach and the pool. Linda went swimming while I sat and used the computer.

We sat by the pool for about five hours and then decided to go for a walk. Our mobiles don’t work here, so no calls or texts to disturb us, unless it's iMessage. There are rocks which identify the beach area of the hotel, but if you climb over them you end up in the public area and the streets. 

We went for a walk along the promenade and actually saw people running! We saw a coffee shop, not quite Starbucks more like a kebab shop, they didn't do Omani coffee just instant so I had a mint and lemon milk shake and Linda had a banana one. We also shared a warm chicken wrap and it was nice, plus it was a tenth of the price of a coffee at the hotel. The Omani drive through system is the cars  drive  up to the front, toot their horns and the waiter runs to see what they want.

We then had a wandered around the area and said hello to some locals, before going back to the hotel. There  is the long way round or the short way across the rocks, Linda didn't want to go all the way round so we climbed back across the rocks. Linda decided not to follow in my footsteps but go her own way and managed to chose the only two rocks that moved and stumbled and banged her leg. It's probably a good illustration for a sermon. She was ok and clambered back. 

In the evening I did a flying 30's running session on the beach, running up and down fast, Linda could have joined in but decided to watch instead! It was still 37 degrees and humid, it was also dark but great fun, with the waves providing a background noise.

You can see some photos here of the hotel and grounds

This link will show you photos of Muscat and the tour

Holiday of a lifetime

Hot and humid Muscat in Oman, here we come, a place we had never been before.

We left home just after 2pm on Sunday and drove the Heathrow T5.  We were doing fine till we reached just before the M40 and then it took nearly as long from there to the airport. However, we finally arrived and parked the car in the long stay car park. 

Our flight was at 19.55 but we wanted to be there early as we were flying first class and to have time to enjoy the terminal. First class check in was in its own area, behind screens from the main airport and was very quick. They have their own security area, so you do not have to join the main crowds and just wander through on your own, directly into the lounge.

Linda was liking this luxury and it takes away all the stress of the airport conveyor belt. We went to the exclusive Concorde room and sat there and drank coffee. It was pretty good stuff. Linda decided to have a free treatment in the spa area.

There was a separate dining area, so as we were hungry we had dinner. It was fine dining, the food was very fancy and nicely laid out - but not very substantial or filling, fortunately we will get fed on the plane later.

It was soon time to wander to the gate, we did have to join the riff raft for this part, but once we boarded the plane, we turned left, they turned right.

We had our window seats, or suites as they are called in first. The good thing was they are very spacious so I couldn’t see Linda, more importantly I was too far away from her to talk to me - asking questions like are you asleep.

We had some drinks bought round and Linda managed to knock hers all over the floor - you can take the girl out of Southend - but you can’t take Sarfend out of the girl as they say!  The air hostess was very nice to her and said they would find her another seat - down the back perhaps = but no opposite me!

The plane was soon taking off and it was just under 8 hours to Muscat, Oman. It is very posh in first class, although I didn’t see anyone famous - in fact the plane was half full as this is not the time to go to Oman, its too hot. However, thats why I got such a good deal on the flight and hotel!

The air stewardesses bring your assorted nuts round on a plate warmed, not in a packet and you can have your food when you would like it. I had a meze platter  followed by burger and sweet potato fries. 

It was then getting late - so  the air stewardess asked if I wanted the bed made up. You get PJ’s and slippers on this flight so I went and changed and when I came back the seat bed was made up.  It was very comfortable and I had a few hours sleep.

Breakfast was served just before we landed.

Oman is about 3 hours ahead and hot, as we found out when we got off the plane! It is in the late 30’s/early 40’s and quite humid. However, once you get used to it, it is not too bad. It was kind of misty too.

We had booked onward transportation to the hotel and our driver was there to guide us through purchasing a visa, immigration and collecting our luggage - all arrived safely. It was then onto our 5 star hotel,  The Chedi, about 20 minutes drive.

Amazingly the first places we saw were Mcdonalds, Costa and KFC.

The deal we had meant we could check in straight away, and even had an upgrade to a room with a balcony as it was my birthday. It is the quiet season for them. It has 3 swimming pools and a healthy club. Behind the hotel are the majestic Al Hajar Mountains and the beach leads down to the  Gulf of Oman. Of course it also has wi-fi very important these days. We have a mini bar in our room and all the non-alcoholic drinks are free, and they replace them daily, even more exciting it has a Nespresso machine. There is an old relic called a kettle to make tea.

The room is enormous and has his and hers sinks, as well as a power shower. The balcony looks towards the sea but it is too hot to sit outside for long.

Linda decided she had jet lag and went to sleep. Once I had finished testing the Nespresso machine I went for a recce around the 21 acres of hotel, as well as venturing out into the local village.

I then came back and did some reading till Linda woke up. We then went down to the swimming pool on the beach, I was sensible and covered up - Linda not so in the pool and had a nice pattern from her swimsuit. It was very pleasant sitting on the chairs, looking out to sea. I went for a paddle in the water, but Linda went swimming in the sea in the direction of Iran.

We are near a Mosque so can hear the call to Salat five times a day. There are a lot of Mosques here but that is similar to a lot of churches in some areas of UK. 

Linda wanted to have a walk off site, so we found the local supermarket and bought some food for our tea. We then walked back in the heat. It is fine walking in the heat, but you do need to have a shower when you come back to the room. 

Everywhere has air conditioning - including the room, which is ok, but I find the room cold and keep going outside to warm up - Linda prefers the cold.

On Tuesday I was up early and went for a run. Linda did think about it - but then turned over and went back to sleep, and was still sleeping when I got back. I decided to be sensible and keep to the main roads, so ran 2.5K one way, turned round and ran back. It was hard sweaty work but felt better at the end. Strangely I didn’t see anyone else running, perhaps they go out earlier.

Once Linda was up we went for breakfast, there was loads food in the buffet around four work stations. We filled up nicely with pancakes, bread, fruit, yoghurt’s - won’t need to eat till tonight. The only downside there was a lady who kept making phone calls on the table next to use and talking loudly. It was more annoying than anything. Then when she wasn’t talking on the phone she was watching videos with the sound turned up. I like to have my breakfast, read the paper and enjoy my coffee in quiet.

The temperature here doesn’t really change at all, it goes down a few degrees in the evening and overnight, but not much more. It stays hot all the time, although by the pool you get a pleasant sea breeze.

We decided to go for a walk after breakfast and it took about 30 minutes to walk to the shopping mall. Thats another thing here you don’t see many people walking! Taxi’s kept bibbing us to see if we wanted a lift, but we were happy to walk. We found the air conditioned mall and had a wander around, it wasn’t much different from Lakeside, all the same shops just the prices were in Omani Rial (OR). 

There was a Starbucks there so we stopped for coffee, didn’t taste much different from the UK! I did have a look around to see if anyone served proper Arabic coffee - but most of the places were like Starbucks or offered instant.

We then wandered back to the hotel and spent the afternoon by the pool, enjoying the sunshine and the water. Linda went swimming but I did some work on the computer and reading.

You should be able to see some photos here